Abigail Gullo Talks Drinks and History
Abigail Gullo is one of the most important voices in American cocktail culture today and the creative force behind New Orleans’ Loa Bar. In the days before she comes to Memphis for a two night takeover of Bar Limina Friday and Saturday July 11th and 12th, we caught up with her to dig into her background and where she finds inspiration.
Reservations for the takeover are currently available below, but walk-ins are always welcome.
Tell me a little about yourself - What brought you to bartending?
AG: I first fell into bartending when I learned to make a Manhattan (sweet) for my beloved grandfather, Vincent at the age of 7 and instantly became obsessed with classic cocktails and the culture that surrounds it. I spent my youth unknowingly gathering excellent craft bartender skills as an Off-Broadway performer and schoolteacher in and around New York City. After working at The Beagle and Fort Defiance, I moved to New Orleans to open a beverage-focused concept for the Commander's Palace Family in the French Quarter and revel in the city that perfected the art of drinking. After three years at SoBou, I jumped to the other side of Canal Street to open the lauded Compere Lapin with Chef Nina Compton and Ricky Gomez, earning the national title Best Hotel Bar award from the Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards and a top ten nomination for Best American Bartender.
When not behind the bar, you will often find me in dog-friendly bars with my Creole Chiweenie, Sassy, and one of many foster dogs.
EC: You’ve helped shape bar programs in New York, New Orleans, and Seattle. How did each stop shape your palate, your views on hospitality, and your process?
AG: When the bartending golden age hit NYC at the turn of the 21st century, my passion for classic cocktails became my profession as well. It was the right place at the right time, because I already had the classic craft knowledge, and I learned I also had a great palate, nice hands, and a great personality for the craft. But alas, I was missing the one key to success in the early NYC bar scene…a mustache!
Besides my love for the city and Tales of the Cocktail, in New Orleans, I saw women who looked like me running bars and restaurants. I thought this was someplace I could advance my career, and once I left NYC, it was like breaking free from the orbit of a planet. I was free, and life got easier!
Life got easier still when I moved to Seattle. Far from the hustle culture of NYC, and the depraved heat and political swelter of south Louisiana, Seattle seemed an oasis of ease. Money flowed, my staff were paid living wages...life was simple and beautiful. And I was so happy to be back in a Baseball Town! But when COVID hit, I saw an opportunity for the conditions for hospitality workers to improve, particularly in New Orleans. I wanted to be part of the advocacy for the rights of hospitality workers to not just survive, but thrive. And what better city than the center of American Hospitality, New Orleans. We are the litmus test, the canary in the coal mine. We are nearly 100% dependent on hospitality. We have the most diverse bar scene, from dive bars to cocktail bars and even cocktail dive bars!
EC: You’ve described bartending as theatrical. How does that show up in your menus or service style?
AG: My favorite acting teacher said that acting is 90% reacting. And to react, you have to be a good listener. I think one of my best skills as a bartender is not that I perform, but that I listen - “The amazing psychic Bartender,” they call me sometimes. I can intuit a guest's desires and needs sometimes better than they can express them. I can also sing on demand and command a room to attention if needed (and you know, sometimes that is needed.)
EC: Where does inspiration find you?
AG: Inspiration comes to me in many ways - There are many muses. Sometimes it is a new ingredient. Something season comes my way, or a theme presents itself. A lot of times, it’s the old variations of a classic. They are classics for a reason! Perfectly proportioned potent cups of joy. Also, sherry - I try to put sherry in every cocktail.
EC: Lets talk about your menu for the Bar Limina takeover - Are there any standouts you are particularly proud of that you want to tease?
AG: Since this takeover falls on my Birthday week, I thought it would be fun to do a Cancer Moonchild menu. I think we are the Gen X of the Zodiac signs. Often overlooked and underestimated. But historically, it is a very powerful sign. We are a rare breed.
The Big Heart, No Cap is gonna be the big crowd pleaser - It's 100% an Abigail cocktail. It’s gotta have some fortified wine, rye whiskey, and something from my heritage. That is a hallmark Abigail Cocktail!
EC: Can you share a personal cocktail memory that cemented the idea that this work is meaningful—one of those “this is special” kind of moments?
AG: Back in NYC, when I worked in a little neighborhood cocktail bar at the edge of the world, I woke up to a snowstorm. I lived in Manhattan, so the snow was pretty well contained. I took the subway to work and got off in Brooklyn to total Snomageddon. I had to walk 2 miles in drifts of snow up to my thighs to the bar, and when I got there, they tried to cancel service...and the Saints playoff watch party we were supposed to have...The whole reason why I wanted to come into work! I demanded that the owner hook up the neighbor's TV, make some Gumbo and open the damn bar for the game!
Before we knew it, the whole neighborhood was crammed into our tiny cafe, shouting who dat and downing sazeracs and warm bowls of gumbo. I realized there was no way I was gonna get home and was resolved to sleep on the benches at work, but when locals heard I was stranded, immediately spare rooms and couches were offered... even a clean toothbrush! To receive such hospitality in return for all my efforts seemed like a beautiful gift. Tips pay my rent but the love and respect I get from my guests feed my soul. I am such a Cancer Moonchild