A Memphis Cocktail Roundtable
Over the past month, Bar Limina has hosted a series of bartender takeovers spotlighting the voices shaping Memphis’ cocktail culture right now. What started as a simple idea became a living conversation — about craft, community, and where this city is headed. The four bartenders gathered here represent that shift in real time, each working from a different point of view but circling the same questions: what matters, what’s changing, and what comes next.
Featured here are the words of Paul Gilliam and Mary Oglesby, owners of a growing portfolio of Midtown-based spots, Cameo, Mary’s B.O.T.E., Fawn, and No Comment Wine Bar; Sam Reeves-Hill, manager at Swamp Bar in Cooper Young, and McKenzie Woodall, manager of the Bar Program at South Main’s Good Fortune and the creative force behind the forthcoming Kuya.
The last popup of the series is January 31st and February 1st, featuring two nights of Paul Gilliam and Mary Oglesby taking over Bar Limina. Reservations available here.
What’s something about cocktail/bar culture that feels different now than when you started?
Mary Oglesby: When I first moved here, I felt like there was a sense of competition within the industry that made people think that someone else’s success is their failure. Over the last few years, we’ve watched newer spots open with younger bartenders and chefs who are building a culture of camaraderie and collaboration and a sense of “rising tides raise all ships”.
Paul Gilliam: What she said.
McKenzie Woodall: I see more and more people willing to get out of their comfort zone to try ingredients/spirits that may be new to them. It’s so nice to see people try and enjoy the menu cocktails we work so hard on, rather than ripping classics every night.
Sam Reeves Hill: I think social appreciation! When I first started, there was not as much broad public value for the crafted cocktail scene. Fast forward to now, and I feel that most people respect a thoughtful, well-balanced cocktail.
What are you most excited to see happen in the Memphis food and beverage scene over the next few years?
Paul Gilliam: More collaboration. More popups. Less gatekeeping. Also, what Mary said.
McKenzie Woodall: I’m really excited to see my generation get its footing in the Memphis scene. There are so many new things on the horizon in 2026. I’m so happy to watch the people I’ve seen work their ass off for years finally getting room to make something of their own.
Sam Reeves Hill: Growth! Expansion! I’ve lived an hour from Memphis all my life, but I moved here in 2012, and the food and beverage shift has been fun to watch. I’d like to see more actual cocktail spots in the surrounding areas.
Mary Oglesby: Nothing that I want for the food and beverage scene will ever happen until we have better public transit and reasonable zoning. regulations.
When you’re building a drink, what’s usually the starting point?
Mary Oglesby: The season.
Paul Gilliam: The season or a random ingredient I see walking the aisles in Viet Hoa
McKenzie Woodall: I’ve always approached cocktail development in the same way I think about food. It starts with a specific ingredient or flavor that I want to come through, and let that guide the rest of my decision-making in terms of what spirits and techniques best complement the result I have in mind.
Sam Reeves Hill: I generally start with a spirit I’m interested in. I’ve gotten to the point where I try not to take the creative process too seriously. You tend to find a little magic between experimentation and intention—so looking for the nuances in that spirit, then combining that with the fundamentals and a unique flavor profile.
What sources do you turn to for continued inspiration?
McKenzie Woodall: Again, I always look to food for inspiration. I definitely look back to the classics and keep up with what new things people are up to, but sometimes I can feel stuck trying to differentiate my ideas from others’. When I focus on specific ingredients and work up, I come up with concepts much faster.
Mary Oglesby: Disney World cocktails. They use super interesting ingredients, don’t turn away from the kitsch, and always incorporate a little whimsy into everything.
Paul Gilliam: I would say just walking around international markets and Ebbo; That and flipping through the Flavor Bible if I’m hitting a wall.
Sam Reeves Hill: Social media has definitely streamlined the inspiration process, but I love the Thesaurus. I enjoy pursuing them and finding unique combinations I may not have considered before. Shout out, Krystyne, for that. When I was a baby bartender at Alchemy, she taught me a lot.
What’s your favorite cocktail in Memphis right now?
Mary Oglesby & Paul Gilliam: We’re gonna come at this from a united front, and say we love everything Good Fortune has ever made or done.
McKenzie Woodall: I’m biased, but I am obsessed with a drink one of my bartenders, Maegan, is finalizing for a Lunar New Year-inspired menu at Good Fortune. It’s not out yet, but it’s insane. Apple/Turmeric/Cumin. That’s all I’ll say for now.
Sam Reeves Hill: It really depends on my mood…If I’m at a cocktail bar, I love a good Naked and Famous or a dirty gin martini with blue cheese olives. But if you have shelf-stable citrus, please give me a boilermaker.
Most underrated/overrated classic?
Mary Oglesby: Under = Ice Pick, Over = Negroni
Paul Gilliam: Under = aviation, Over = dirty martini
Sam Reeves Hill: Underrated: Margarita!!! Overrated: Moscow mule. Try a dark n stormy
McKenzie Woodall: Aside from that one viral video, Negronis are still criminally underrated in my book. Anything bitter/savory is underrated. Get into it.
What’s a cocktail trend you’re ready to be done with?
Sam Reeves Hill: Espresso Martinis.
McKenzie Woodall: Not sure that it’s really a trend, but I’m tired of overly complicated garnishes. I’d much rather spend the time prepping and keep it simple. Let the cocktail speak for itself.
Mary Oglesby: Clarified milk punches. Tons of labor on the back end with a result that is never worth the effort and often confusing to the guest.
Paul Gilliam: Smoke bubbles on cocktails.